Aaron reckoned it had been over 40 years since his first walk up to The Pinnacles Hut during a school trip with Thames High School. They had bivvied in the surrounding bush on the first night, but as the rain settled in, the group crammed into the hut to escape the wet weather. The original 20-bunk hut became the rangers’ hut when the modern 80-bunk hut was built in 1995. Aaron and Ranger Robert knew each other from high school, and when they reconnected last year, he invited us to stay at the rangers’ hut (as long as there was room) next time we wanted to check out the Pinnacles.

It was a dusty doddle along the gravel road to the car park, which took just over 20 minutes. We started walking around midday. The Pinnacles Walk is both a day hike and an overnighter. Average fitness takes 2-3 hours to the hut and allow 45 mins to the peak (one way). If you’re desk-fit like me, I took four hours to the hut, and an hour to the peak (one way). If you want to do a sunrise hike, get up early and get through the ladders before the crowds.


The track starts off on a lovely forest track, giving plenty of shade from the midday sun. There's a swing bridge that crosses the Kauaeranga River, then the track starts going up. And up. And up. Historically, the track was cut as passage for pack horses, and it's fascinating to see the stone steps in good condition to this day. So yeah, once you think the steps are done, there's more around the corner. 

Aaron, being a foot taller than me, made easy work climbing the eroded rocky steps. As cramps began to really set in, I found myself stopping more often. There was no rush, there was plenty of daylight left and as we climbed higher, we finally started to get views of the surrounding mountains. 



Aaron, being a foot taller than me, made easy work climbing the eroded rocky steps. As cramps began to really set in, I found myself stopping more often. There was no rush, there was plenty of daylight left and as we climbed higher, we finally started to get views of the surrounding mountains. Eventually, we popped out of the bush line and the track headed downhill. Once the Pinnacles Hut comes into view, it's about 15 mins to the hut.

Ranger Robert greeted us with hugs at the Pinnacles Hut. He was still on duty, so he walked us down to the rangers’ hut, got us settled in and headed back. After a hot shower, I lay down on the couch for a nap, while Aaron found a book to read. We had brought steak, corn on the cob and salad as dinner for the three of us. A quick meal to whip up so we waited for Robert to come back before getting stuck in. Aaron and Robert spent most of the night reminiscing about life in Thames, youth group days and up until the present. Robert also took us down to the stream to check out īnanga (native whitebait) and small koura (native freshwater crayfish). Not much for eating at that size, but fascinating to see them so high up.

I don't think Aaron really wanted to get up at 4.30am for the sunrise hike, but he did anyway. Our headlamps shone into the abyss of mountain fog while sweat mixed with early morning dew. I have never climbed up to the peak in daylight, and I'm not sure my short legs would do any better up those ladders to be honest. After an hour of grunting, swearing and getting annoyed at my lack of dexterity, we got to the top and soon realised we weren't even the first ones up there. While waiting for sunrise, Aaron found a flat enough boulder and had a nap.

The track up to the peak was a mix of scrambling, boulders and ladders.

It was too cloudy to really get much of a view from the peak. Rolling winds would give us a glimpse of the mountain range below, then disappear in the blink of an eye. Cold and in much need of caffeine, we didn't stay too long after sunrise. Coming down in daylight felt much quicker, although Aaron did still have to help me down more than a few boulders. I just gave way to more nimble hikers and kept hoping more of the fog would clear as we headed down. It was surprisingly busy for a Monday morning, especially as it wasn't a long weekend.


We wanted to stay longer to catch up with Robert, but we still had a three-hour drive home after coming down the mountain. Aaron and I don't often get to do tramps together, and it was cool to connect more with his hometown. It took us just over 3.5 hours to get back to the carpark, with a quick side quest to the viewing point for Billy Goat Falls (look out for the signs off the main track). We wanted to catch The Cheese Barn in Matatoki, with me hobbling in about 15 mins before closing. Their Gouda is highly recommended. Aaron also picked up some salami and Biersticks for the drive home. I must have been in a deep sleep on the drive home because I woke up, we were almost home in Edgecumbe. 

Passenger princess life, bliss.


Aaron and Ranger Robert at the modern Pinnacles Hut.