It was back in August 2018 when I first walked the tracks at Karaponga Reserve with long-time Rangitāiki local, Bill Clark as my guide. He had once described the tracks at the reserve and the Onepū Wetlands Walk (next to the Onepū MTB Park) as the Onepū Project, a collective of activities and experiences in a village just 20 minutes from Whakatāne. Bill and I go way back to my musical theatre days (circa early 2000s), nostalgia hits me as his booming baritone voice guides me through the forest.
I had stumbled upon the Karaponga Reserve when I bumped into a local walking her dog at the Onepū MTB Park. She saw that I was interested in photography and said that the waterfall and historic hydroelectric dam walks were a must, especially since they were just down the road. For dog lovers, the Karaponga Reserve is one of a few walking tracks where dogs are allowed. Not much was online about the tracks at the time, so I reached out to Bill.There are two walking tracks at Karaponga Reserve - the waterfall track and one that will take you up to the historic hydroelectric dam. Both tracks are unmarked, but I reckon the main track is pretty clear. There are pink triangle markers for the traplines, so if you accidentally follow one of these and find yourself bush bashing up the hill, then you’ve gone the wrong way.
Karaponga Falls
The waterfall track runs alongside the Karaponga Stream, with a gradual climb up to the waterfall. From the carpark, cross the paddock and head for the treeline, go to the left-most corner where you’ll see a gap in the bush, about the width of a driveway. There’s no gate, although sometimes it does have an elastic gate rope across it. There used to be a large carved wooden sign a few years ago, but it had fallen down and never been put back up again. Walk down to the stream and you’ll come to the Lions Centennial Bridge built by the Edgecumbe Lions Club in 2017 to commemorate the club’s 100 years of international Lions’ service. Apart from the bridge, there are no other stream crossings.
If you like quiet walking tracks to yourself, this one’s for you. I went on a Sunday morning recently and didn’t see anyone else until I was heading back to the carpark from the historic hydroelectric dam later that morning (see below). The forest track to the old Boving & Co generator is mainly flat - I designed that signboard about the history of the hydro scheme.
The track will get narrow and may get slippery when there’s been rain. Watch your footing as I did notice a bit of erosion in a couple of sections - you can still easily walk over it. You’ll hear the waterfall before you see it - it just pops out of nowhere really. To be honest, I usually end up taking more photos of the stream below, there’s something about water flowing over rocks that fascinates me.This isn't a loop track, so head back the way you came. It usually takes a 40 mins roundtrip, add a bit more if you like taking photos.
Historic hydroelectric dam
From the carpark, cross the paddock and head for the treeline until you see a gate in front of you. Don’t go to that one, instead follow the fenceline until you see a second gate. You should see a walking track heading up to the forest. Make sure to close the gate behind you.
Most people who walk their dogs usually take this track as it’s wider and cleaner than the waterfall track. Just be aware there is pest control poison dropped along the track, so you may want to keep dogs on a lead. Although unmarked, it’s really easy to follow the main track, just don’t take any side quests and you’ll be right. In my research, I saw an old map online marked with a viewing point, but that’s now overgrown and used as a trapline. Keep following the walking track until you get to this fallen log, the track on the right will rise slightly until you come to a more rugged dirt track.The power station was first constructed in 1922 to supply power to Whakatāne. It was expanded with a second generator in 1928, but closed down in 1939. Reconstruction and recommissioning started in 1996, and the power station is now operational. The light pumice soils in the area quickly filled up the dam, so it contains almost no water reserve, with the power station relying on the flow of the Karaponga Stream alone for its supply.
— motowalknz.com
As I slowly made my way down, I saw Basil pop out from the Rata Track. He’s also a volunteer for the Manawahe Eco Trust, he must have been servicing his traps. Sadly, the giant Rata tree that gave the track its name fell during a past cyclone. As you get closer to the hydroelectric dam, the track will narrow and large rocks turn it into more of a scramble. Soon you’ll see the top of the hydroelectric dam, keep following the track down until you see the large pipe. On your right, you should see the old hydroelectric dam.
This isn't a loop track, so head back the way you came. It usually takes an hour roundtrip, add a bit more if you like taking photos.
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